travelswithalice
May 20, 2011
Hotel Villa Cipriani in Asolo
Having sought shelter from the sun under two white umbrellas and an awning, I feel unbelievably lucky to be here, on this glorious spring day. The air, filled with sweet birdsong, is warm and exquisitely perfumed by the jasmine shrub flowering exuberantly behind me.
In the background, the soft warbling of another kind of bird:
"... If the sun should tumble from the sky, if the sea should suddenly run dry...if you love me, really love me, then whatever happens I don't care..."
Now what's that song again? French... Edith Piaf... heard softly in the background. Wrong country, right attitude.
Now what's that song again? French... Edith Piaf... heard softly in the background. Wrong country, right attitude.
The Hotel Villa Cipriani may be reason enough to come to Asolo. This is what hotels are meant to be. The garden, the bar, the restaurant all have the intimacy that only small hotels can provide. But also with the reassuring competence and practiced pampering available only in what is usually called a grand hotel.
This is where we are spending our last two nights in Asolo.
Yesterday, for the first time ever, Stuart had been disposed to just sit quietly all day reading or wifi-ing in the garden. He successfully resisted his usual compulsion to jump in the car and launch into one of his monumental explorations of whatever town we happen to be discovering at the moment.
This hotel does that. They spoil you. They let you spoil yourself. The wonderful staff are all in it together. Katia and Camilo have been especially helpful.
The Barrett- Brownings (yup! as in Elizabeth and Robert,) one- time owners and residents of the property would no doubt be pleased.
The view of the surrounding countryside with the villas and country homes snuggled into the hills and mountains must be unrivaled in all of Asolo.
I don't really know this for a fact but the view from our room must be right up there in the rankings.
You don't have to take my word for it. Watch "Ripley's Game" and see for yourself. Stuart and I were thrilled to realize that parts of the film were shot right in our room and on our balcony!
Labels: Barrett- Brownings, Edith Piaf., Hotel Villa Cipriani, Ripley's Game
May 18, 2011
A camera-shy full moon in Asolo
We knew the Villa Foscari was on the Brenta Canal as we had seen it those many years ago on a burchiello cruise. It took us the better part of an hour anyway to figure out how to get there and then where to park when we got there. Only to find out that the villa was closed.
Back at the hotel, we had a drink on the balcony, followed by a light supper. I had pasta. Mezze maniche with ricotta and olives and tomatoes. It was okay but in the end I found the pasta too heavy and the ricotta not a very satisfying substitute for the burrata mozzarella that was originally on the menu but was unavailable then.
We were eagerly awaiting the rising of the full moon but Nick, the waiter was not very encouraging. Rain was forecast for the evening.
Not eager to walk in the wet around the tiny town which we had virtually covered in a fifteen minute walk the night before, we retired early and watched "Ripley's Game."
Back at the hotel, we had a drink on the balcony, followed by a light supper. I had pasta. Mezze maniche with ricotta and olives and tomatoes. It was okay but in the end I found the pasta too heavy and the ricotta not a very satisfying substitute for the burrata mozzarella that was originally on the menu but was unavailable then.
We were eagerly awaiting the rising of the full moon but Nick, the waiter was not very encouraging. Rain was forecast for the evening.
Not eager to walk in the wet around the tiny town which we had virtually covered in a fifteen minute walk the night before, we retired early and watched "Ripley's Game."
Every so often, I checked if the moon had made an entrance yet above the hill and behind the rain clouds.
It finally did, halfway into the movie. So we put Ripley on hold while we tried to photograph the camera-shy full moon.
It finally did, halfway into the movie. So we put Ripley on hold while we tried to photograph the camera-shy full moon.
Labels: Asolo, full moon, italy, restaurant, Ripley's Game
Villa Cornaro
VILLA CORNARO
Next on our list was Villa Foscari or La Malcontenta which really got me started so many years ago on this Palladio thing. But on the way to Foscari, Stuart decided to drop in on Villa Cornaro.
We knew it opened only Saturdays but he said we would sticky-beak anyway. I sat in the car while he walked over to the Caffe Palladio to inquire. As expected, he was told that Saturdays were the only visiting days.
As Stuart walked out of the cafe, I saw a man come after him. It turned out to be Mr. Carl Gable, the present owner of the villa. He and his wife had been in the cafe and were going back to the villa anyway so they very generously let us into the grounds, telling us to just lock the gate on our way out. Shame we couldn't see inside but it was more than we expected to see anyway.
As we walked toward the beautiful house, I asked Mr. Gable what it was like to live in this iconic architectural treasure. He said something about having to have the front upper loggia redone.
I asked why, and he seemed puzzled by the question. Then he said quite simply:
"Because it has rotted away."
Labels: Caffe Palladio, Carl Gable
Villa Barbaro
VILLA BARBARO
Tuesday, we set out to see Villa Barbaro, just a few minutes' drive from Asolo. It was one we couldn't get into the first time so we were eager to get in.
This villa is lived in so the protocol is different from that at Emo where I practically had the run of the house. There are more roped in areas here and, horror of horrors, one has to wear slippers in the house! Of course the slippers went over one's shoes but still...!
I guess that's what turned me off the place early on. And then there were the knick-knacks and disparate furniture that detracted from the architecture. And the sight of laundry hanging in full view in the barchessa really didn't help either.
I thought the frescoes were too gaudy and the restoration job too heavy handed. I also didn't much care for the complicated layout.
To Palladio scholars this villa is of the greatest value as it illustrates most clearly the master's major contributions to the science and the art of architecture.
To this Palladio fan though, it is not nearly as sublime as the Villa Emo.
To this Palladio fan though, it is not nearly as sublime as the Villa Emo.
Labels: Villa Barbaro
Villa Emo
VILLA EMO
First on our list was Villa Emo. We were the last visitors of the day. I was so excited because I had waited so long to see it.
Back at Albergo da Sole, we had a lovely dinner on the balcony of the hotel restaurant. I had a bread and spinach gnocchi. Very nice. The balcony overlooks a tree-lined street that looked strangely familiar to me. A quick consultation with the waiter confirmed that I was looking at the setting for a scene in one of my all-time favorite movies, "Ripley's Game." The one with John Malkovich.
First on our list was Villa Emo. We were the last visitors of the day. I was so excited because I had waited so long to see it.
I walked around the beautiful house, slowly, almost reverently, all the time marveling at the feeling of well-being it gave me. I knew it had to do with Palladio's famous magical formula of balance and symmetry, geometry and harmony. I didn't understand how it worked; but it worked.
I sat in the sala for a long time reading my book, Witold Rybczynski's "The Perfect House." There was nobody there but me. Stuart was out walking in the grounds. I felt all was well in the world. My world.
Back at Albergo da Sole, we had a lovely dinner on the balcony of the hotel restaurant. I had a bread and spinach gnocchi. Very nice. The balcony overlooks a tree-lined street that looked strangely familiar to me. A quick consultation with the waiter confirmed that I was looking at the setting for a scene in one of my all-time favorite movies, "Ripley's Game." The one with John Malkovich.
Apart from Malkovich, the film's main attraction is Villa Emo, which is featured very prominently in the action. And now, as it turned out, there was all the more reason for me to find this little town very interesting- most of the film was shot in and around Asolo.
Stuart quickly downloaded the movie from the net.
Labels: Emo
To visit the villas of Palladio once again
And now to the main purpose of this holiday: to visit the villas of Palladio once again.
About six years ago, Stuart and I came to the Veneto region to explore the villas built by Palladio. We saw a few but we missed a lot of others too. Because we couldn't find them, or we ran out of time, or they were not open on the days we came to see them or on the times we came. Those open only in the mornings we never got to see because we, at least I, guard our mornings indoors jealously. Meaning, I rarely get up and out, breakfasted and bathed and ready to face the world, before noon.
Monday, we left Gargnano. We felt silly to be leaving. The sun was shining, the air was clearer than ever after the much vaunted storm. That was a storm? It came at 6 in the morning and was gone by breakfast. But Palladio was waiting.
In Asolo we checked into our hotel, the Albergo da Sole, deposited our bags in our room, and eagerly set out for our villas. Monday is not a good day for the villas, the girl at reception said, because most are closed Mondays.
About six years ago, Stuart and I came to the Veneto region to explore the villas built by Palladio. We saw a few but we missed a lot of others too. Because we couldn't find them, or we ran out of time, or they were not open on the days we came to see them or on the times we came. Those open only in the mornings we never got to see because we, at least I, guard our mornings indoors jealously. Meaning, I rarely get up and out, breakfasted and bathed and ready to face the world, before noon.
Monday, we left Gargnano. We felt silly to be leaving. The sun was shining, the air was clearer than ever after the much vaunted storm. That was a storm? It came at 6 in the morning and was gone by breakfast. But Palladio was waiting.
In Asolo we checked into our hotel, the Albergo da Sole, deposited our bags in our room, and eagerly set out for our villas. Monday is not a good day for the villas, the girl at reception said, because most are closed Mondays.
Labels: Albergo da Sole, Asolo, Hotel Villa Cipriani, Palladio, Ripley's Game
May 15, 2011
Stormy Sunday in Gargnano
Still at Valerio's. As advertised, the storm has come. So good of Valerio to warn us of a stormy weekend when we asked Friday to extend our stay. But if there was anywhere I'd like to be in stormy weather, it would be here.
The lake is restless but the rain has stopped and the mountains across it have reappeared from behind the haze. A baby olive tree in a planter has toppled over on the balcony.
I've changed into a short skirt; wet leggings would be uncomfortable. Now back to leggings because Stuart says it's going to be a cold day.
I've come prepared though- I fish out a raincoat from the bottom of my suitcase. I've got my trusty old Adidas flats to brave the storm. It's still paradise.
The ferries are not running so we drive all the way to Riva for lunch. Nothing there appeals to us. We drive back. Stop at Limone. Still not the place. Now all the way back to where we started. Gargnano.
The ferries are running again. The storm has passed.
Labels: Albergo Gargnano, Limone, Riva
Malcesine
Saturday, Malcesine.
Once a lunchtime favorite, Mignon Pizzeria is a huge disappointment. It has to go. The nicest thing that can be said about the food is: there's a lot of it. I ask Stuart to remind me what it is I'm eating. Cue in a new favorite lunch place.
At the waterfront bar though, the amarena gelato saves the day. Fabulous! Twice in a row.
One look at Stuart's very professional looking camera and the waiter barks in a booming fairground voice, "Attenzione, signori! Paparazzi!"
Laughter. I ask to take his photo but he turns his back to me theatrically, protesting, "No privacy! Ambush!" And he scurries into the kitchen, face averted. Cute.
On the ferry back to Gargnano, Stuart and I are alone on the rear deck. The lake is calm but dark clouds turn everything grey.
We are soon on our balcony though and Nadia has brought us a bottle of wine and little plates of warm bruschetta, huge green olives, and sundried tomatoes. Let the storm come.
On the ferry back to Gargnano, Stuart and I are alone on the rear deck. The lake is calm but dark clouds turn everything grey.
We are soon on our balcony though and Nadia has brought us a bottle of wine and little plates of warm bruschetta, huge green olives, and sundried tomatoes. Let the storm come.
Labels: ferry, gargnano, lake garda
May 13, 2011
Thursday at Valerio's Hotel du Lac in Gargnano
Thursday, Gargnano.
At Valerio's Hotel du Lac. So nice to be back. It's been six years. Valerio welcomes us warmly. I show him a photo taken about ten years ago of my mother and his in the garden of Hotel Gardenia, his parents' hotel a few meters down the road from his. His two brothers are now married. Andrea, the youngest, now has 2 sets of twins.
This is our terrazza.
At Valerio's Hotel du Lac. So nice to be back. It's been six years. Valerio welcomes us warmly. I show him a photo taken about ten years ago of my mother and his in the garden of Hotel Gardenia, his parents' hotel a few meters down the road from his. His two brothers are now married. Andrea, the youngest, now has 2 sets of twins.
This is our terrazza.
Labels: Hotel Gardenia, kiwis, terrazza, Valerio's Hotel du Lac
May 12, 2011
Milan lunch itinerary
Milan
At the end of the week, here's our lunch itinerary in review:
Monday. Caffe Brera on a street corner near the Pinacoteca. Cheap, chic, and cheerful. Mostly students. I always say go to where students go for good, affordable food.
Tuesday. At a roadside bistro called Jazz. In Sempione. Leafy suburb on the tram line. I love the idea of table settings with bread rolls and cutlery in paper bags. Roast beef and salad and crisp white wine.
Wednesday. Beautiful, old, wood paneled, dark restaurant. Reminds me of Zen, the TV show. Stracciata di manzo - tenderloin tips in a creamy mushroom and red radicchio ragout. Not much to look at- all the same drab colour and lots of it piled unceremoniously in the center of the plate. But oh so delicious! The ultimate comfort food!
Thursday. On the top floor of La Rinascente, a department store- of all places! But the view was magnificent. Level with the spires of the duomo, I could almost reach out and touch them! I recognized Obiko Mozzarella Bar from the Rockefeller Center in New York where I pigged out with Bing once on the dreamy creamy cheeses.
Labels: italy, milan, restaurants, Sempione, travel
TURANDOT at La Scala
Milan
TURANDOT at La Scala
Success! We managed to wangle tickets at the last minute and finally found ourselves in the holy of holies! The last time we tried, we ended up at the very unimpressive, very suburban off-site, off-center La Scala annexe, the Arcimboldi. Not the same at all.
 |
| Turandot at Teatro alla Scala |
Pre- opera drinks at Bar Marchesino. Prosecco and a snack of creamy cheese risotto served in a cup. Plus olives and nuts and arancino balls (more rice!)
Lise Lindstrom was perfect as Turandot. That of course is my uninformed opinion.
The notoriously onerously unappreciative Milanese crowd was visibly unimpressed. I guess she hasn't been dramatic enough, not oppressively abrasive enough, not shrilly or trilly or squilly enough. Oh well. If it were me, after all that effort she put in, and to great effect methinks or methought, and not a whiff of appreciation from the audience, not a measly clap or call of Brava Lindstrom, I'd have stormed out and not bothered to come out at curtain call. With or without the entire cast. Which of course she was criticised for- not having the nerve to come out on her own. Hmmmph... some people!
Well I thought she was great! Woot woot to her! Never mind Brava!
Post- opera supper at Park Hyatt bar. Carpaccio and rocket salad and Brunello di Montalcino. Perfect.
Labels: La Scala, Lise Lindstrom, milan, opera, Park Hyatt
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