travelswithalice

November 21, 2013

 

I never really knew Hong Kong

I'm not much of a traveler really. I'm not even a good visitor.

I'm supposed to have lived in Hong Kong for 9 years. I don't have much to show for it though. I have just come to the sad realization that I'm not much of a delver into local life and culture. Except for a few excursions on the tram, a few bus rides, and the occasional trip across the bridge to Wan Chai market, mostly undertaken only when playing host to visiting friends or family members, Hong Kong for me has been mainly the Grand Hyatt, Pacific Place,  Landmark, and Star Street.

I lived in Singapore for 17 years before Hong Kong. I'm now back. I'm supposed to have been back two years. I'm as much a stranger here than ever.

Which is why  today, in Singapore,  I'm going to be a tourist.


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In search of Korean food in Wan Chai

Parts of my country lie devastated by the monster typhoon. It didn't seem right to think of anything else these past two weeks. 

We try to do what we can to help but we know our measly efforts don't amount to much. Except to make us feel better about ourselves.

I haven't written anything in a long time. My blog lies in ruins too.

I've been in Singapore since November 1. Haiyan reared its monster head soon after.

I'm done watching CNN. There's a world out there...


This is going back a month or so ago, I was joining Stuart in Hong Kong for the weekend- I flew in from Manila, he from Singapore. I got there several hours before he did, so I joined friends Jim and Tokmin for dinner.
Jim said, follow me! We did, and proceeded to circumnavigate Wan Chai. 



Jim, an old Asia hand, has lived and worked in Hong Kong for a very long time. For some reason, he found it very difficult to find his way around this time. I was not much help of course due to a congenital sense of direction deficiency.
After what seemed an unreasonably long time, we found the place. It turned out to be just a few blocks from our hotel.  

Apart from being one of the best places for authentic Korean food outside of Korea, Arirang Korean Restaurant has a historical significance. It was the very first Korean restaurant in Hong Kong.

Jim got us there but Tokmin navigated the menu. Dinner was great.



And this was our reward for the long walk. It was far different from my usual dinner drink. Delicious but deadly.


Arirang Korean Restaurant
3F, W Square
314-324 Hennessy Road
Wanchai, Hong Kong

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Frustrated and furious

80% of Tacloban has been destroyed by the biggest storm ever recorded. My country's president is in total denial-mode. 

The Red Cross chief, an almost laughably unsuccessful candidate for the president's job is decidedly more presidential. He leads, he acts, he does incredibly intelligent, well thought-out, well executed stuff.

I've just begged for food aid from my hotel's GM. I've also promised to help pack 50 cent meals for a Singapore charity group. Yet I'm convinced none of these well meaning activities would help those devastated by the typhoon. They might even add to the problem. Am I doing all this for me? To make me feel I'm doing something? To alleviate this feeling of frustration? Irrelevance? Uselessness?

Stuart and I turned up at the food packing do but there were crowds already there and nothing left for us to do but donate money.


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November 04, 2013

 

Hong Kong, end of a love affair

There's a storm brewing over Victoria Harbour.


My home is gone. 

I'm being melodramatic. It's only a hotel. They merely renovated. But of course everything's changed.

I miss everything that used to be. 

The cutting edge uniqueness, the minimalist reduction to simple lines punctuated by whimsical touches. 

I miss the beautifully crafted secret wooden boxes, the little birds, the acorns.

I miss the feel of wood, the spare, clean lines, the elegant desk, the ergonomic chair.

I guess all this felt a little too Japanese and just had to go.

Second-guessing the experts is one of my secret guilty pleasures. I know that a design is good when it surprises me with originality and when I can't even begin to understand its source.  When it gives me something I didn't even know I wanted. Or when I can't dare to even think I can do better. 

I expect good design to be original and beautiful. I like a style to be simple and functional, as well as beautiful. (Wait a minute, that sounds like the iPhone!)

I'll miss ending the day with this view...


...and waking up to this one...


My home is gone but the harbour is forever. Or is it? The reclamation project is not ending anytime soon.

P.s.
What has happened to Chez Patrick Deli on Star Street?
Where have all the French chefs gone? Why are the shelves in that big pillar not spilling over with goodies? And why was my meal so uninspired?

Sadly, my favorite Sunday lunch in Hong Kong has lost that food-glorious-food feeling.



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