travelswithalice

December 16, 2021

Dublin and Coming Home

Tuesday, December 14.

Looks like a nice day. Maybe I’ll go to Trinity College. I wish I could summon up a little enthusiasm though. Liza at Sunday breakfast in the restaurant tried her best to talk up her city but I guess she really didn’t have a lot to work with.

This is a sad place.

Of course much of this has to do with it being winter in the midst of a devastating pandemic. Also the fact that our traffic-clogged commute from the airport was soundtracked by our driver’s impressively articulate data-filled damning commentary on what he deemed the absolute mess his country is in and has been in for a very long time.

Added to which, when we had settled into our hotel room, the first thing we watched on TV was a documentary called “My Ireland” which I rather optimistically and mistakenly thought would show us all the wonderful things we would find in the country we had just arrived in, never having been before.

Instead it reinforced in poetic style everything our taxi driver had told us in no-nonsense prose.

I’ve been gobsmacked the last two days, utterly astounded by the dreary turn our holiday has taken, unwilling to venture out of our hotel room.

Stuart gamely walked around the city as much as he could but the photos he came back with were hardly encouraging. Mostly of memories of war and famine.

Wednesday, 15.

When we woke up this morning, we were booked to go back to Sydney on Saturday. However, reports of soaring Covid cases in NSW, an all-time high of 1,360 in the last 24 hours, and Health Minister Brad Hazzard forecasting 25,000 daily cases by end of January quickly changed our minds.

By noon, we had changed our flight to go to Manila instead.

Feeling reassured and more cheerful about our latest travel plan, we had room service beer-battered cod and chips with mushy peas late in the afternoon then went for a walk around the block.

The walk didn’t change my opinion of the city but at least it eased my guilty mind about rash judgments and lack of exercise.

Friday, 17.

This is the view from our window. It’s quite a stunning view. The light changes so quickly. These photos were taken only two hours apart.

Gothic, brooding, mysterious, medieval, a perfect match for the weather.

We went to tour the beautifully restored Early Gothic interior.

Never had afternoon tea seemed more appealing than on a day like this.

And the poky no-frills café at the edge of St. Patrick’s Park is definitely the perfect place. It’s a sandwich and fresh juice bar called Bite of Life.

Later, in the evening, we returned to the cathedral for Evensong. Quite a change for Stuart and me. It was lovely and restful and felt appropriate for the season.

It also brought back memories of afternoon choral practice every first Tuesday of the month under the baton of Sister Robrecht who patiently tried, and mostly failed, to get us to sing psalms in Gregorian chant.

Saturday, 18.

Interesting day.

Went for our PCR Test early. Early for me that is, at about 8:30am. Too early as it turned out; the test place GoSafe48 on Bloom Lane was not to open until 10.

We had a leisurely breakfast in the first place we saw that was open called Lemon Jelly. Stuart had a “mini” Irish breakfast and I had an avocado sourdough toast. A long line of people had formed at the door.

By 9:45, we had joined the queue outside the still closed test place. To one side of the narrow lane was

a spectacular life-size photograph of a staging of da Vinci’s Last Supper.

The figure that stood out was a man in a modern-day business suit, an unmistakable banker-type, cast as Judas.

The PCR test was quick and easy, very organised. We walked back to the Hyatt, detouring to see St Patrick’s rival Christ Church Cathedral.

No contest. Hands down, St Patrick’s gets my vote.

Sunday, December 19, 1:15pm.

On board Etihad flight to Manila.

I guess this marks the official end of our 5-month Great Covid Escape which began on the 23rd of July.

It has been grand.

…coming home…

https://madjdiary.blogspot.com/2023/02/coming-home.html?m=1

posted by Alice Dimalanta Jones # December 16, 2021

December 02, 2021

December

Wednesday, December 1.

We’re running out of ideas for lunch, so we head to Mercado de Chamberí for burrata salad and beef barbecue.

Friday, 3.

It’s our 39th wedding anniversary.

We started the day with lunch at Bienmesabe.

Later, we celebrated at nearby bar Quero with new Madrid friends from the hotel: Enrique, Fabio, Carolina, and Juan.

Guzmán dropped by but couldn’t find us as we had moved into the dining room in the back. I think it was a missed opportunity for him to get to know some of his key front-liners.

Quero Bar is on Garcia de Paredes, just around the corner from our hotel. It’s a family-type bar and restaurant with warm friendly service and exceptionally good home cooked food. We’ve taken out so many meals from them, they greet Stuart with a cheerful “Para llevar?” as soon as he goes through the door.

It’s been our thing lately, discovering good takeout to eat in our hotel room. After four months of being away from home, eating in has become as much of a novelty as dining out usually is.

Monday, 6.

Our last week in Madrid.

Apart from the knowledge that we’re leaving this marvellous Sydney-type winter meaning cold days but with brilliant blue skies to go to what could be a frozen Irish wasteland, what I’m most sad about is that we're leaving just as we’ve gotten to know where to go for a really good meal.

One day last week, Stuart discovered Restaurante Don Sancho while looking for takeout lunch. It’s on Breton de los Herreros, a five minute walk from the hotel. We’d gone past it countless times without even stopping to look; the door is always closed with no way to see inside. This time though, the owner/chef happened to be standing outside so Stuart asked if they were open. Miguel led him in, recommended some dishes, and struck up a conversation.

There were two more delicious takeout meals after that day. Today we decided to have lunch in the restaurant.

The place itself is staunchly old-fashioned. Black and white floor tiles, peachy pale walls with black dados, black wrought iron balustrades, cushioned black bentwood chairs, white tablecloths.

It’s exactly what I’ve been hoping to find since we arrived over two months ago. The food is excellent: delicious, classic, traditional, unfussy, as far removed from nouvelle as can be wished for. I had Castellana soup, veal escalope, and tocinillos del cielo.

Miguel told us about some of the important people who used to come to his restaurant. The king, when still a prince, used to come on his bike.

It was famous, he said.

Thursday, 9.

I’m going to miss waking up to this:

We looked at an apartment in Argüelles. Late 19th c building, renovated top floor, attic really, with lots of natural light from roof windows, 3 bedrooms, 2 baths. I was very disappointed because the ad photos led me to believe it was so much nicer than it was.

Fit-to-Fly Travel test for Saturday’s trip at Life Length on Gral. Martinez Campos was quick and easy.

We then went across the street to El Yate for lunch.

It’s our third time in this restaurant. It’s a hundred yards from the Sorolla Museum, five minutes from the Hyatt. We like it not so much for the food, which is quite nice, but mainly for the lively vibe of the place and the friendly efficient service.

Once you’ve deciphered the rather ornate penmanship on the Menú del Día and struggled through the translation- this is where friendly service comes in handy- you’re off to a very enjoyable inexpensive meal.

Saturday, 11.

I can’t believe we’re actually leaving sunny Spain for wintry Ireland!

The best of Irish luck to us! 🍀

posted by Alice Dimalanta Jones # December 02, 2021

travelswithalice

December 16, 2021

Dublin and Coming Home

December 02, 2021

December

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