travelswithalice

July 21, 2005

 

La Rotonda


La Rotonda- also known as Villa Capra or Villa Almerico- popped up most unexpectedly as we made our way into Vicenza from our agriturismo farm.

Having just gotten off the freeway, we were intent on making out the signage to the center of town, and were totally unprepared for the massive white building that suddenly came up beside us, very close to the road, in mainly unremarkable countryside.

We had acquired new digs in town, at austere, ascetic Hotel San Raffaele on Monte Berico. The location was ideal as it placed us very close to the Palladian buildings we came to explore, as well as the Vicenzan night life we now hoped to enjoy. Having installed ourselves at our hotel, we casually drove back to inspect the villa. That day, a Wednesday, turned out to be the only day in the week when it was open to the public.



Considered the crowning glory of Palladio’s oeuvre, this villa is the most visited as well as the most copied. I am not an architect so I am not entitled to an opinion on this matter; but as I had travelled a long way to look at these villas, I will have an opinion.

I found La Rotonda to be a bit over the top, even for the Renaissance. I much preferred the quiet, austere elegance of the earlier villas. It’s probably a heresy to say this, but Poiana and Pisani to me had decidedly minimalist lines, (Palladio, the minimalist?) making these ancient houses feel very contemporary and so cutting edge.




Of course the circumstances of this particular visit didn’t help in the personal favorite stakes. Unlike our very private visits of the other villas, that day’s tour of La Rotonda was much too touristy. Meaning, there were too many people there. As already mentioned, it’s the most visited of Palladio’s villas.

The experience therefore lacked the almost mystical aura of our earlier, very personal encounters with the master.











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