travelswithalice

September 13, 2007

SOUTHERN SPAIN

We set off for southern Spain on the 1^st of September.

From Madrid we head south to Toledo where we pick up Don Quijote’s route through the unrelentingly flat landscape of Castilla- La Mancha. The land here is arid and seems suited to only one crop: olives. There's absolutely nobody around for miles and miles. No wonder he went chasing after windmills!

I’m all geared up for this trip: laptop, pocket tape recorder, 3 cameras, 3 guidebooks, and a phrasebook. However, a heady mixture of too much sun, too much food, and way too much wine has so far defeated my efforts at posting daily blogs.

And here we are, in Andalusia. Home of the flamenco, bullfights, dancing horses, the Alhambra. Birthplace of Trajan and Hadrian, Picasso and Velasquez, and of course, Antonio Banderas.

In the cool shade of a beautiful courtyard in Cordoba, I begin my Spain report.

CORDOBA

Our hotel, Casa de Los Azulejos, is distinctively Spanish; or is it Moorish? I guess it's Andalusian.

Beautiful tiles (azulejos) splash brilliant patterns around the leafy courtyard. A reception area is off to one side, at the other end a charming informal garden room where tables are laid for breakfast. More tiles climb up and wrap around a staircase.

Azulejos dictate the decorative motif of every building in this pretty town of narrow cobbled streets, quiet courtyards, and dark churches. Even notices for concerts and festivals are permanently rendered in tiles.

Windows and balconies are adorned with wrought iron grilles and more tiles. Raffia mats of the kind used for drying olives shelter houses from the sun beating down into late afternoon.

Celia at the hotel's Reception puts on her Concierge hat and steers us in the direction of the first full meal I remember having since we arrived in Spain.

We had, until now, only craved and chased after every kind of tapas on offer. This time we're ready to go for the main course as well.

Bodegas Campos introduces us to the sublime salmorejo, the cold tomato soup of Cordoba. It's a bit like gazpacho, only better. Rich, thick, creamy and topped with chopped eggs and ham. Delicious.