The Frecciarossa from Venice was wonderful. It would've been perfect had the people in our car- a party of four very excited people- not talked nonstop throughout the two hour trip. It was a wonderful ride nonetheless.
It was nearly 5 p.m. when we arrived in Florence but it felt like the noon day sun beating down on us as we wheeled our luggage to our hotel.
Stepping into the cool shade of the Hotel Santa Maria Novella sitting room was divine. And the hotel room too was divine, looking directly out on the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella and the square.
Up on the roof deck is a magnificent view of the city and the surrounding hills.
We walked a little, gazed at the Duomo a little, then went to dinner. Trattoria al Trebbio is just around the corner from our hotel and it serves good food, simply cooked. We have acquired a new vice: cantucci and vin santo.
That evening, there was a mini concert in the square; just a couple of buskers singing feel good songs. A man waved giant soap bubbles in the air, children chased softballs and launched pretty lighted missiles into the sky with slingshots.
Later, up on the roof, we waited for the moon to rise. Jupiter and Mars shone brightly in the clear night sky. But we were tired and the moon was taking a long time climbing over the Tuscan hills, so we gave up and went to bed.
The next day was stifling hot. Rather than brave the sweaty crowds in the Piazza della Signoria, we went to lunch.
What price to pay for this view?
Answer: €6 and a potential heatstroke.
A great way to see the Duomo in Milan is to have a meal at one of the nice restaurants on the rooftop of the Rinascente building. So we figured we'd avoid a long hot search for a lunch place and go to the rooftop of the Rinascente building here.
There was just the one open air restaurant and the sun was beating down mercilessly on it. We sat under an umbrella, took some pictures, and proceeded to order lunch.
It took us another minute to decide we couldn't bear the oppressive heat and opted for the cafe downstairs serving the same menu. A half-liter of Pinot Grigio on the roof was €14; downstairs it was €8. We had a nice meal in the cool and saved ourselves €6 on the wine.
Suitably cooled down and reenergized, on to the Piazza!
You've heard of fainting spells induced by heady first time encounters with the floridly beauteous sights of Florence, right? It's called Stendhal Syndrome or Florence Syndrome.
Well, my day at the Piazza della Signoria had nothing to do with that phenomenon. I've been to Florence before. I've been in the Duomo and in the Uffizi. I've seen the glory of the Renaissance arrayed spectacularly, even at times casually, in various parts of the city.
What I was unprepared for was the sight of this monstrosity occupying center stage in this great art capital:
(Searching for Utopia, bronze sculpture by Jan Fabre, 2003.)
The world has gone mad. First came Duterte...then Brexit...cue in President Trump. And now a giant bronze turtle in Florence's Piazza della Signoria!
Also, armored trucks and heavy artillery in Piazzale degli Uffizi.
Stendhal or no Stendhal, I felt I had to get away. The next day, we left for Montepulciano.
Labels: Florence, Hotel Sta Maria Novella, Jan Fabre, Stendhal Syndrome