travelswithalice

January 07, 2017

On the Streets of Valparaíso

Colorful they may be and fascinating to look at but climbing up and down these steep streets is something else altogether. 

We much prefer taking the 140 year-old ascensors. Lucky for us, the city chose to close down our one, Ascensor Del Peral, for much needed rehabilitation only on our last day there.

The signs showing official tsunami escape routes make me nervous but Stuart quips that judging by the presence of hills all around, escaping tsunamis here wouldn't be too difficult. We hope not to test that theory anytime soon. 

A vast army of dogs has taken up permanent residence all across the city: in the streets, pavements, parks, plazas. They are everywhere. So why isn't the city piled high with their mess, I wonder? There must be very dedicated street cleaners here on the job 24/7. Or dogs that clean up after themselves.

Most of the women here have sad faces. I don't think they're sad, they just have that look. Like sad madonnas.

Maybe it's the collective sad experiences that are etched on their faces: devastating earthquakes, tsunamis, the bloody coup that launched the repressive Pinochet regime, and the economic hardships that followed. 

That's probably why they brighten up their lives with aggressive paintwork all around. On walls, doors, benches, stone steps. 

These may have served also to galvanize their strong community spirit. They feed the stray dogs; they set out water bowls for them; I'm told they even clothe them in the winter.

They readily chip in as hats are passed around by street performers. And there are performers everywhere:

An itinerant singer at dinner...

...a drum band in a plaza... 

...a belly dancer at a curbside cafe.

On the train to Viña del Mar, the old lady on the seat facing me drops a few coins into the hat of the ukelele playing singer who had just finished his gig. Smiling impishly, she now dances in her seat to the beatbox music of the next busker. 

Labels: Valparaiso

posted by Alice Dimalanta Jones  # January 07, 2017

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