travelswithalice

March 11, 2018

 

New Zealand: In search of the Milky Way

I have just splurged on a pair of very expensive merino wool snow tights for tomorrow’s trip to Canterbury College Mount John Observatory. This could very well be a major highlight of our holiday. That is, if we’re lucky with the weather.

This stock photo, achieved through the incredible magic of astrophotography, is one of many that have inspired tomorrow’s quest:

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The drive from Queenstown is beautiful. It meanders through vineyards, wineries, cheeseries, and bungy jumps. Okay, the last one only makes the list because this area, Gibbeston, is said to be the birthplace of the sport.

On the way, Lake Pukaki’s water is a brilliant shock of aquamarine.



Lake Tekapo village. This is where the promise of the southern skies awaits. Even the parking lot of the village supermarket has quite a view, so expectations run high.


We’re early, so we drive up to the observatory’s Astro Cafè but the access road is closed. We meet some friendly locals along the way:







An hour before the scheduled tour, the all-important weather forecast. Sadly, Stuart and I decide to cancel our twilight stargazing tour as thick dark clouds look determined to stay and ruin our evening. 



There is of course a chance that the outlook could change but, with the evening’s prospects not looking too good, we don’t relish the thought of the 3-1/2 hour drive back in the middle of the night through unfamiliar roads. We’re disappointed but we’re glad to be starting back early.

Well into the drive back to Queenstown, we weave through winding country roads, swinging left and right. It’s a job for me to figure out whether I’m looking at the north sky or the south. Reason enough to learn to navigate by the stars...

Having left the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve, we also manage to leave the clouds behind. And as we round a bend, there it is: a totally cloudless, spectacularly star-strewn sky with the Milky Way snaking up the middle, starting just where the Southern Cross lies on its side. 

I have my window open, my head hanging out and twisted up to the sky. I feel sorry that Stuart is missing out because he can’t find anywhere to safely stop on the road. 

He promises we’ll be back next year though, when we can plan to stay in Tekapo and do the midnight observatory tour without worrying about the long drive back.

I can’t wait!

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