travelswithalice

May 15, 2018

 

Annette’s Rome, part 1

Wednesday 

We arrive in Rome on a cloudy afternoon; big change from sunny Amsterdam.


Stuart has thoughtfully arranged for Annette and me to be in a hotel as close to St Peter’s as possible. We didn’t have high expectations; the main thing was to be near St Peter’s.


Hotel della Conciliazione is on Borgo Pio, right next to the arches of the Vatican walls. We’re thrilled to find that our room has a big terrace from which we see Rome’s umbrella pines and the yellow and white Vatican flag fluttering over the rooftops of neighbouring grubby old buildings. As church bells start to peal, we realize we also have a distant view of St Peter’s, its cupola peeking out from above a terrace next door. Perfect!





It soon rains, but no matter. Armed with raincoats and umbrellas, we set off to find a restaurant recommended by Jhislaine at the front desk.


As promised, dinner at Arlú is wonderful! A half bottle of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, saltimbocca for Annette, and grilled swordfish for me


At the table next to ours is a chatty Irish couple celebrating their 25th anniversary. The wife, a pretty Elizabeth Taylor look-alike works in the Customs Office of Ireland, so talk inevitably drifts to Brexit and the looming problem with borders.  


It’s a cheerful celebratory evening. The rain has stopped and as we stroll back to our hotel,  we stop to buy fruits for tomorrow’s breakfast.


Thursday 




In the morning, the sky has cleared and after a quick breakfast of fruits and coffee, we head off to the Vatican Museums for a guided tour Stuart has pre-booked for us.






Our excellent guide, Art Historian Francesca D’Orazio:

francesca.dorazio5@gmail.com 





The Museums and Sistine Chapel Tour takes up most of the day, starting with queueing at the gate for security checks, then the waiting inside for the tour to begin, and the eventual recuperating from being on our feet for hours on end. Even at lunch in the museum cafe, we were standing at a cocktail table.We’re glad to have our hotel close by. 


In the evening, Maurizio joins us for dinner, again at Arlú. The restaurant is full. I’m glad I booked before we left last night. Maurizio spots local football star Marco Delvecchio who has just walked in to the restaurant. They  briefly exchange pleasantries.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marco_Delvecchio


After dinner, we buy gelato from an artisanal shop across from our hotel. It’s called Sublime, an appropriate name for its products. 



We stand outside the shop, watching the goings on in festive Borgo Pio, dripping gelato all over ourselves, cheerfully chatting until it’s time to go hone. 

Friday
It’s a beautiful sunny day. We go to the bakery next door for breakfast . It’s a real working bakery, not just a shop selling baked stuff.  They don’t make coffee though, so we buy a pizza bianca and a padini and go straight to St Peter’s. 

We watch enormous tour groups pouring into the square further stretching the already long queue for the Basilica. We wonder if we should aim to get in today. Maybe we’ll just wait to see if the Pope makes an appearance for the Angelus. 

We eat our bagged breakfast still hot from the bakery, fragrant and delicious.  We take pictures.






The queue has gotten much too long. And we’re getting much too hot. So we head back to the hotel, stopping at one of the Vatican gates to try our luck getting tickets for next week’s General Papal Audience. 

“It’s too early, I don’t have them yet,” the Swiss guard says, smiling affably. 
“Try again tomorrow.”
“What time?”
“Anytime tomorrow. We’re here 24 hours everyday.”

But tomorrow we’ll be in Montepulciano...

Later, we take our luggage to be stored at the Hotel Cavalieri for our return to Rome on Monday. The hotel shuttle takes us to Piazza Barberini, a short walk to the Trevi Fountain.  But as soon as we see the throng of people coming at us from the direction of Trevi- we still haven’t recovered from yesterday’s long tour of the museums- we abandon our plans for Trevi and the Spanish Steps.

Back in the relative safety and quiet of Borgo Pio, we chance upon a restaurant just off Piazza del Risorgimento that looks to be somewhat off the beaten track. It’s in a basement and seems to be not too touristy, if that’s at all possible around these parts. We book for dinner.

It proves to be an excellent decision. At La Soffitta Renovatio, we enjoy an all-Roman fare of grilled fresh artichokes. suppli, zucchini flowers stuffed with anchovies, and osso buco.





No half bottles though, so we walk back afterwards carryng our half-drunk bottle and singing Arrivederci Roma....



Tomorrow, Montepulciano!






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