travelswithalice

On our last evening game drive, I get an unexpected lesson in conservation and survival of species. 

Southern Ground Hornbills,  large black birds with bright red wattles are an imposing sight as they waddle imperiously through the yellow grass. Some cultures revere them as birds from the gods and are believed able to summon the rain.

They can grow up to a meter high and have been known to live up to 60-70 years. There are very few of them left outside conservation areas like the Kruger because of loss of habitat. What’s more, these birds have very complicated breeding habits: they mature only after seven years and breed only every three years, if at all. Only the alpha male and female mate; and they mate for life. All of which can’t help much in the survival stakes.

Sometimes called thunderbirds, they are classified sas Vulnerable by IUCN (International Union for the Conservation of Nature) but conservationists of the Kruger consider them Endangered. 

As twilight descends on the veld, we are made acutely aware that this evening‘s Sundowner schedule has been preempted by a sighting of wild dogs.

Two African Wild Dogs are dining on what looks to have been a small nyala. 

Sometimes called “painted wolves” because of the unique patterns and colours of their coats, these hunting dogs have few known predators apart from lions. Considered to be the most efficient hunters in the wild, they chase prey to exhaustion before viciously tearing it apart without bothering to kill it first. 

This last may go a long way to explaining why “human persecution” is a big factor in the decimation of these dogs’ numbers. They are classified as Endangered. I think maybe raising funds dedicated to saving the African wild dog may prove to be especially challenging.

On the drive back to camp, we come across a sorry- looking, battle-weary Spotted Hyena nursing a mangled left ear dripping blood.  Not an inspiring sight.

Totally lacking in charm, behaviour-wise as well as appearance-wise, hyenas nevertheless have better chances of surviving as a species than most.

The IUCN classifies them as of Least Concern.

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Back at camp, cocktails as usual at the bar at 7:30. Ever solicitous and warmly hospitable, Trevor always welcomes us into his lair with drinks, pre-dinner nibbles, and a roaring fire. Dinner tonight will be served under the stars in the boma. 

At Mala Mala, this serves as the dinner bell:

The boma is an outside enclosure dominated by a huge campfire. It’s enclosed by a tall reed fence but is open to the sky. And continuing the tradition of African tribal gatherings, the kitchen staff sing and dance for the dinner guests.

In the morning, I bid farewell to Mala Mala. Having missed the last morning drive, I wait for the sun to rise on the deck of our khaya.

I will miss all this. The early morning light, the brisk air, the smell of freshly cut grass, the birdsong, the star-spangled African nights.

I will miss the lovely people of Mala Mala. Liam, Johann, Hannah, Trevor, Bheki...

I will be back. And I won’t wait another 13 years to do it.

Labels: Africa, boma, Endangered species, Rattray’s, safari

posted by Alice Dimalanta Jones  # June 10, 2018