travelswithalice

August 26, 2018

Moscow, Second Impressions

The City and the People

When away on holiday, the last thing you want is to be in a place that feels like “you could be anywhere in the world.” Sometimes it’s hard to avoid those places; in big cities, it’s close to impossible. But in Moscow, you always know you’re definitely not in New York, or London, or anywhere else familiar. You know you’re somewhere different.

It’s the wide avenues, the vast public parks, the monumental architecture, the fabulous metro, the ubiquity of its national symbols.

It’s also the cleanliness. Streets and pavements, underpasses, the metro, buses, trams, and trains are exceptionally clean. I can only speak of the places I’ve been to. In a big city like this, there surely must be untidy places; I have yet to see them in Moscow. On the train to Nizhniy Novgorod, they mopped the floor at every stop, four times in just over three hours.

It’s the superb food always available at bargain prices. Their food culture reflects a strict work ethic. They do things well. There’s a lot of traditional cuisine, not to say staid or old fashioned, but based on classical food preparation. I noticed this even in small cafés and little takeout places. And they have exquisite pastries!

It’s the people. They’re reserved, very private; they speak softly to each other. They don’t always look approachable or friendly but they are helpful when asked.

They don’t smile much. Elina, Park Hyatt’s Front Office Manager explained this to us. Her people, she said, have had a complicated, difficult history and this has affected the way they behave. They don’t readily talk to strangers, smile at them, or casually ask them how they are as people in other countries, like the US for example, would. So when you do ask them how they are, they assume you really want to know. They’re likely to give you more than just “I’m good, thanks.”

I love how people here bring flowers rather than gift-wrapped presents to parties. I often see them all dressed up, carrying bunches of flowers, usually roses. And restaurants are always ready to accommodate with large flower vases.

The Restaurants

We eagerly went back to the restaurants we liked the first time around.

Grand Cafe Dr Zhivago wins hands down for atmosphere, food quality, service, and low low prices. Caviar, dumplings, vodka, and all things Russian, including a view of the Kremlin.

Bolshoi is my second, more elegant choice. Still Russian, but more European.

The thing I like most about these restaurants is you can dine elegantly without having to dress up for it. Perfect!

I wasn’t overly impressed with the Park Hyatt’s Conservatory this time around. Their prominently displayed fancy olive oil was the same one I got with my complimentary in-room breakfast. They do have great views but so did we in our room.

Lavka Lavka, last year’s favourite. At first we thought having the outside option was an improvement on last year when the cold wet weather didn’t allow it. But sitting on the summer deck somehow didn’t have the same country farm feel of the downstairs main hall. Maybe that influenced our impression that the food quality was not as good as we remembered. The service also was a disappointment. In fact, service was almost absent. Too bad. We were so looking forward to going back.

The Great Moscow Circus

Our hotel is close to the Bolshoi Theatre and constantly seeing it from our window made me regret not being there during the theatre season. Every year in August, the theatre closes down and the ballet company goes on tour.

There was, however, a fitting replacement for theatre, ballet, and opera: the ultimate “people’s art form,” the fabulous Russian Circus. It was a spectacle like we’d never seen before.

Produced for last month’s FIFA World Cup, this extravaganza pulled out all the stops, enlisting Russia’s foremost super talents. It was a spectacular three-ring mashup of Barnum & Bailey, Cirque du Soleil, and Folies Bergère...on steroids.

It of course featured lions and tigers jumping hoops and curtsying on command, a long-established circus tradition already redacted out of other circus repertoires and which I personally could have done without.

The horses though, and their riders, took my breath away.