We’re on the road again. All for the love of Andrea Palladio!
Thursday, May 12.
First stop: Villa Emo. We finally got to see inside. We tried before, on previous visits but only managed to see the gardens.
I’ve long been fascinated by brilliant architects and the perfect houses they build.
This colour-coded architectural model is in one of the rooms in Villa Emo. It helped me understand a little bit better how geometry may explain why Palladio’s rooms feel right; why being inside any one of his houses seems to generate a feeling of well-being.
Friday, 13.
I was up at dawn. Again. Exciting day ahead.
Revisiting Teatro Olimpico.
Saturday, 14.
It’s been an unforgettable grand finale for our Palladio tour.
From the outside, Villa Poiana looked just as imposing a structure as before. But once inside, I felt it had lost its grandeur. There’s now too much clutter owing to awkwardly placed signs and things to do with paid visits to the property. Things had changed in the 17 years since we first visited.
I was determined to demonstrate to myself the Palladian room proportions and was thrilled when even my rough measurements (taken inexpertly with my iPhone) proved that indeed the room height is half the sum of its length and width.
I found the main hall too difficult to measure.
Once again, just as in our previous visit, we overshot the route to Villa Pisani, now with the added name of Bonetti.
We made a U-ey, proceeded on to the almost hidden sharp left, at the end of which we were once again confronted with a closed gate. But like before, we were surprised to be invited in by the caretaker.
Having bought the entrance tickets, we picked up an English foldout guide for €1 but Ahmed said: No, it’s a gift. My gift to you.
When we last visited, the Villa seemed to be lived in. This time, it looked more like a museum or art gallery- it was chock full of things, displays, and lots of art work inside and out on the grounds.
There was too an Osteria which by default was our only means of exiting the property. The front gate was locked and Ahmed was nowhere to be found.
We didn’t mind though as we had intended to check it out anyway.
Through a shady terrace and into a lovely lounge. Jazz music.
The restaurant is beautiful. We decide to have lunch.
And the food? Exquisite.
Olive oil comes in a small bottle with a dropper.
My guinea fowl doesn’t look anything like any fowl ought to look but it tastes divine.
No wine for us as Stuart is driving. The couple at the next table has just been through a long parade of wines.
Jonathan brings us coffee in the lounge.
We discover that this is also a hotel. They have rooms. So why not stay so we can enjoy a lovely meal and have wine too.
We decide to book for two nights.
As Samuel was showing us the rooms, he casually mentions that the restaurant will be closed tomorrow and Monday. The two nights we’ll be there.
Oh well, in that case, we won’t be staying after all.
Samuel, very flustered: We can recommend nearby restaurants. How about we book you a taxi? Order a pizza?
How will any of that help, I wonder. We were only staying for the restaurant.
So off we go back to Padua, to our not so nice Sheraton Four Points and the just okay room service dinners.
I don’t mind, really. It’s been such a glorious day!
