travelswithalice

May 30, 2022

Ragusa

Tuesday, 31 May.

The Antica Badia Relais- San Maurizio 1619 is in a renovated 18th century palazzo across the street from the Cathedral of San Giovanni Battista, the patron saint of Ragusa. I like the way the entrance to the hotel is set back from the curb.

Having just arrived from a nerve-racking trip on a train full of rowdy school kids, we had planned a relaxing evening, a nice meal with maybe a glass of wine.

Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant Ciano turned out to be a more elaborate affair than we planned. I’ve lifted the descriptions from their menu card.

After the amuse-bouches, came the appetiser of crab and shrimp coral.

Coraline

Crab with passion fruit pearls, raw beetroot, shrimp coral and hazelnut

I had turbot with roast beef carpaccio.

Congruente

Turbot with wild mustard, taramas sauce, roast beef carpaccio and seaweed broth.

Stuart had risotto with donkey fillet. Donkey? Really?

Ciano

Carnaroli risotto with donkey fillet, hazelnuts, artichokes, robiola.

Dessert was ice cream with lemon mousse. It was served with a shot glass of basil water on the side. I asked if I was to pour it onto the ice cream. Delia, the very charming hostess said No, you drink it. Hmmm…I didn’t much care for that.

Tokio Blues

Pizzuta almond of Avola ice cream with lemon mousse, basil water, wasabi granita and raw green bean.

“Ciano” in the local dialect means lower church square. Originally used to store animals, the restaurant is a series of rooms with cream coloured rough-hewn stone walls and cove ceilings. It has a casual contemporary vibe, its walls hung with modern art, several by a local artist whose paintings are too weird for my taste.

With Luca Gulino, Ciano’s 29-year-old peripatetic chef.

This young Ragusa native has skilfully brought to the table the wonderful flavours and colours derived from his culinary experiences abroad.

The next day, I set myself up on the window ledge for a lovely breakfast.

Wednesday, 1 June.

The morning was not a good one for me as I’ve had a sleepless night. They asked to move us to another room because of a problem with the bathroom lights.

I don’t like this new room they’ve moved us to. I loved the other smaller one, the one with the pretty window.

This afternoon I stayed in while Stuart went to Ibla. I didn’t go out until it was time to go to dinner.

The restaurant that Mariza at the front desk recommended was booked up until 8, so we went to a place called Basilico instead. Good choice.

I had grilled prawns, Stuart had sea bass baked in foil. We’ve booked for dinner tomorrow.

Stuart had brought me from Ibla a book from the Inspector Montalbano Mysteries by Andrea Camilleri.

These are the stories we’ve enjoyed watching in the TV adaptation, stories that are responsible for our detour to Ragusa.

Thursday, 2.

Today, our last day in Ragusa is “Festa della Repubblica”.

After the day’s military parades, there was dancing in the cathedral square in the evening.

A marvellous way to end the day.

posted by Alice Dimalanta Jones # May 30, 2022

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