travelswithalice

June 09, 2022

Taormina

Wednesday, June 8.

Another train, another adventure!

Now experienced train travellers, we know how to get a taxi from the station. Having called our hotel to send us one, we soon leave behind a number of tired, frustrated, befuddled other travellers still trying to work the call-phone at the taxi stand.

We’re in Taormina. It’s so beautiful here.

Perched on a mountain slope 400 meters above sea level, it has astonishingly gorgeous views across the Ionian Sea and Mount Etna, the hyperactive volcano that locals affectionately call “Mongibello”, beautiful mountain.

At dinner in NH Collection’s rooftop restaurant Zefiro, Giuseppe our waiter cheerfully informs us that Etna is currently erupting.

After helping us choose the wine, explaining the evening’s specialties, and introducing the restaurant’s chef, another Giuseppe, he then takes us around the rooftop balcony to point out the most beautiful spots in his town.

So we’re 20 miles from Mount Etna, Europe‘s largest and most dangerous volcano. It is, at this very moment, erupting. Should we worry?

Well, we’ve just had a marvellous dinner with a bottle of very nice wine, so we’re really in no mood to worry about anything at all. After all, I’m told that Mongibello is not known to hurt people.

Thursday, 9.

We spent the morning at poolside, finally taking the time to just laze and read. We’ve really fallen off the wagon this time and it’s not even lunchtime yet!

In the evening, dinner at family owned and run Malvasia. We loved the food and the informality. Our bill was handled by the matriarch. She was wearing a large kitchen apron so I asked if she was the chef.

Yes, chef and “padrone”, she said.

Taormina is an elegant town. The architecture ranges from ancient Greek and Roman to Medieval to Baroque. There are many smart bistros and romantic scenic restaurants. People tend to dress for dinner.

The tourist souvenir shops are all on Via Teatro Greco, the street leading to the amphitheater. Main street Corso Umberto has the smarter shops and big name luxury brands. Dior has a beautiful store in a splendid Baroque building.

The wind started to blow a gale as we walked back to the hotel. Later, for the first time since we arrived here, stars were bright in the night sky.

Friday, 10.

Our last day in town was reserved for the two famous theatres of Taormina.

The Odeon, the small Roman theatre, was built in 21 BCE but was only just discovered, accidentally, in 1892.

Intended only to host musical and literary presentations for the elite, it sits less than 200. Built of red clay bricks, it’s now sadly mostly rubble.

The Greek Theatre of Taormina, built in the 3rd century BCE, was dug directly into the hard rock of Mount Tauro. With seating for thousands of spectators, its design follows the Greek building tradition of incorporating natural scenery into the architecture.

I wish we could stay to watch a performance.

Later, we had Negroni and Etna Spritz on the terrace of Hotel Timeo.

Rain has been forecast for days now so we canceled our booking at Malvasia and went instead to Trattoria Tutti Cca (I believe it means everybody’s here), the pretty restaurant on the twisty steps beside the Roman theatrette.

It did start to rain after dinner and we had to make a mad dash for the hotel. Luckily it’s just a few steps up and across the road.

posted by Alice Dimalanta Jones # June 09, 2022

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