travelswithalice

July 24, 2022

Saint-Malo

Sunday, July 25.

Sunday morning in beautiful Saint-Malo.

Remembering the fabulous fish and seafood from the last time we were in Brittany many years ago, we’re thinking maybe we should stay longer, go around the area for a while, before heading off to Paris.

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But by lunchtime, after a desultory search for hotels, we’ve decided to keep to our original schedule.

At Le Lion D’or, we indulge our craving for great French food in a fun setting without the typical grouchy French service.

Dinner is at La Cabane beside the quay. This is an interesting restaurant. You enter through a quirky little narrow door marked Entree, into a sparsely decorated open space with simple tables and chairs. You order at the bar counter where the day’s menu is explained to you and you pay upfront, in cash, cafeteria style.

They have an all you can eat buffet but we opt for grilled sea bass from the à la carte menu.

La Cabane is owned and operated by a very charming lady who tells us it’s only been two weeks since she started operating it. Her experience working at Hotel Chateaubriand for 19 years probably partly explains why everything goes so smoothly with only two women manning the dining room. They even manage to sing Happy Birthday and bring a slice of cake with a lighted candle to one of the tables.

Monday, 25.

Finally, my long awaited fish soup! Lunch at Brasserie du Sillon.

I had photographed it a lot, this mysterious-looking house on the beach. Mommy would’ve loved to paint this dreamy seascape. Stuart says I should paint it for her. Maybe I will.

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We were back in the restaurant for dinner. The tide had gone out, the afternoon’s wild surf had calmed down; a lone surfer was making the best of the dying waves. Gliders and kites sailed in the rising wind.

We watched all this from our window-side table, the same one we had at lunch, while we battled with the exquisite sea creatures on our plate.

It was a protracted pitched battle and it was just the starter. By the time we’d gone through the rest of the meal, which ended with lime sorbet in chilled vodka, the sun was beginning to set and a cold wind had gone up.

We shivered in our summer clothes as we hurried back to the hotel but I had to keep stopping to take pictures of the gorgeous sunset.

posted by Alice Dimalanta Jones # July 24, 2022

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