travelswithalice

August 16, 2023

 

Verona


Monday, 14.

Via Sottoriva is a medieval cobblestone road with a long dark arcade running along one side and the Adige River on the other. 

It has an away from it all atmosphere, quiet, shady, a great place to go for a meal or a drink or just for a sweet. This was where, years ago, we first saw horsemeat on the menu.

At the osteria on the corner closest to Due Torri, at the back of Church of Sant’ Anastasia, we’ve now discovered our new favourite dessert: sbrisolona. 

It’s a dry almond cake which you dip in passito (sweet wine) or grappa. We can never remember the name, nor can we  pronounce it. We just point to it on the menu.






Saturday, 12.

Madama Butterfly at Arena di Verona was a very special treat for us as we had only decided to go to Verona two days before. Milan had seemed too crowded and somehow sadly uninteresting. 

We got last minute tickets to the opera without even checking who was going to be in it. What a fabulous surprise it was to find we had lucked out with major stars Aleksandra Kurzak as Cio-cio san and husband Roberto Alagna as Pinkerton. I loved Kurzak as Juliette here in 2012. Alagna of course is considered one of the greatest tenors of our time. 



https://youtu.be/QnsCcKSn8V8



We ended the evening with drinks at the hotel bar. Franco presented us with special snacks and stories about his 40 years as bartender at Due Torri.







Friday, August 11.

I thought I’d found another one of my smart discoveries- like Barchessa di Villa Pisani… Hotel Trieste  looked really nice in pictures. Quirky, artsy, edgy. Booking.com rated it “Fabulous”.

Sadly, it turned out to be another one of my ill-advised recommendations. So after one night there, we moved to our longtime favourite Due Torri Hotel.

And so, happily we’re once again in a place we love.














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